The basic function of a watch is to keep accurate time. The movement or mechanism by which a watch performs this function, however, can be quite different from watch to watch and is truly the hidden art within a timepiece. Learn all about the different types.
What is a Watch Movement?
Watch movements are the internal mechanism that powers a watch’s hands and any other features. A watch’s movement is also sometimes referred to as its calibre. This internal powering component is part of what can set a designer watch apart from the rest.
Why is a Watch Movement Important?
The movement is a key indicator of value in a timepiece and showcases a watchmaker’s expertise. Designer watches often prioritize classic construction and mechanical movements to celebrate this artistry.
Technological advancements, however, have made low-maintenance, highly accurate quartz movements accessible to the wider public. Knowing your personal priorities can help you choose the designer watch and movement that is right for you.
The kind of movement you choose also impacts some of the complications available to you. Complications are additional functions of a watch aside from timekeeping and can include:
- Date display
- Chronograph
- Dual time zone
- Moonphase
- Power reserve indicator
- Minute repeater
- Digital display
Types of Watch Movements in Designer Watches
The three main types of watch movements are mechanical, automatic, and quartz, and they demonstrate the increasing role of technology in the horological world. Mechanical watches, which first debuted in Europe in the 1600s, have been a mainstay of beauty and function for timekeeping for hundreds of years. Advancements like the self-winding mechanism and the discovery of the quartz movement, however, disrupted the watch industry and brought designer watch consumers new options to consider.
What is a Mechanical Movement?
Avid designer watch collectors and enthusiasts often prefer the traditional craftsmanship of a mechanical movement. Mechanical watches work by tightly winding a spiral torsion mainspring, which serves as a store of energy within the watch. This spring then slowly and consistently unwinds, releasing this energy through a series of gears that ultimately move the watch’s hands and any additional functions.
Hand-wound mechanical watches are less represented in today’s designer market but are still available from certain watchmakers. Panerai offers a number of hand-wound options for those who prefer this classic watch movement.
Pros and Cons of Mechanical Watch Movements
Mechanical watches are the most traditional movement and, as such, are often preferred for their craftsmanship and charm. These watches are good candidates for family heirlooms that last generations, as they tend to appreciate in value.
Mechanical watches do require more maintenance, however. They are susceptible to shock damage, as their internal mechanism is delicate and must be treated with care. These watches are also typically costlier than more modern movements and are slightly less accurate.
What is an Automatic Movement?
The automatic watch movement features a technological innovation applied to the traditional hand-wound mechanical movement. Automatic watches still rely on the same tightly wound mainspring to supply the energy store for the watch gears; however, these watches feature a self-winding mechanism.
The self-winding mechanism in an automatic watch uses the movement of the wearer’s arm to move an internal rotor that, in turn, winds the mainspring. This self-winding mechanism relieves the wearer of the responsibility of winding the watch every day or two, as is required with a traditional mechanical watch. This blend of timeless craftsmanship and modern innovation makes the automatic watch a preferred option for designer watch buyers.
We love the classic stylings of a self-winding Cartier watch. The automatic watch movement is represented widely among designer watch manufacturers, offering a large variety of design options to fit any style.
Pros and Cons of Automatic Watch Movements
Because an automatic watch relies on the classic mechanical watch movement as its energy source, you’ll never have to change a battery. This is significant for diving watches, as opening the case is something best done by a professional to preserve water resistance. With an automatic watch, you won’t have to worry about scheduling a surprise service visit when your battery dies.
Automatic watches include the same disadvantages as their hand-wound mechanical counterparts. They are costlier and require more maintenance to keep their delicate inner mechanisms in good working order. They are also slightly less accurate than watches with more modern movements.
What is a Quartz Movement?
A technological innovation in the early 20th century took the watch industry by storm. It was discovered that a battery applied to a quartz crystal will emit very precise vibrations that can be used to keep time.
Japanese watchmaker Seiko launched the first quartz movement wristwatch in the 1960s, which initiated an industry disruption that came to be known as the Quartz Crisis. The traditional Swiss watchmaking industry was upended for the next two decades as the quartz movement gained rapid market share over the traditional mechanical watch movement.
Quartz movement watches became so popular in part because of their groundbreaking combination of accuracy and affordability but also because of their low maintenance and their ability to integrate other technological innovations, like digital displays. Today, quartz movement watches maintain their popularity in the designer watch market and can be found in a variety of styles. Omega is one of our favorite quartz movement watch designers and was an early leader in pioneering this innovation.
Pros and Cons of Quartz Watch Movements
There are many pros for the quartz movement, which is why it was such an industry-disrupting innovation. Among the many benefits of a quartz movement watch are:
- Affordability—quartz watches are significantly less expensive than mechanical watches
- Durability—the internal mechanism is more durable because it has fewer moving parts
- Low maintenance—a quartz watch requires no winding and little maintenance
- Superior accuracy—quartz movements are more accurate than mechanical movements
- Lightweight—fewer internal mechanisms allows for a slimmer, lighter watch case
- Digital complications—the addition of a battery allows for LCD and LED displays and other digital features
There are few cons to a quartz movement, and those are largely a matter of personal preference. Some may dislike the affordability of a quartz movement and may consider a mechanical movement to be more prestigious. Also, a quartz movement requires a battery that must be changed every one to two years. Trust a jeweler with your watch battery replacement to ensure that no damage is done to the watch body.
What Watch Movement Is Best?
The watch movement that is right for you is a highly personal decision based on your priorities and lifestyle. By taking the time to consider the things you value most in a timepiece, you can better select the movement that will yield you both the design features and accuracy of timekeeping that you need to enjoy your designer watch for life.
