When talking about diamonds, the first topic on most people’s minds is the stone’s one-of-a-kind sparkle. If you’ve ever browsed the glittering cases at a jewelry store, you’ve likely found yourself captivated by the brilliant shimmer and playful way each diamond interacts with light. But did you know that those memorable details are all due to the cut of the diamond?
Diamond cut is arguably the most important aspect to consider when selecting diamond jewelry. Before buying that once-in-a-lifetime engagement ring or luxurious diamond necklace, we recommend doing some research to ensure you get the best stone available. That’s why our experts have taken the time to answer each and every burning question you, as a shopper, could have about diamond cuts!
Diamond Basics: The 4Cs of Diamonds
Have you ever heard the term “4Cs” thrown around while shopping for diamonds? If you haven’t, it’s time to learn!
The 4Cs are the universal scale for assessing the quality (and, therefore, the value) of a diamond. Each C represents its distinct attribute, which is then measured on its own scale. The 4Cs include:
- Color
- Clarity
- Carat
- Cut
Fink’s 5th C
Our professional team of jewelers uses the same 4C scale as everyone else—but there’s a twist! Clif, a dedicated employee, has spent over two decades hand-selecting every single diamond we offer at Fink’s.
Other businesses buy in packs or groups that fall within specific ranges, but not us! Clif inspects each diamond to ensure that the cut, light performance, and overall brilliance meet his high standards. This extra step, and Fink’s 5th C, is what makes our diamond jewelry superior!
Define Diamond Cut
Diamond cut is one of the more crucial aspects of a diamond’s overall appearance and quality. The cut refers to the arrangement of the facets, which directly impacts a stone’s brilliance, symmetry, sparkle, and overall beauty. A well-cut diamond will have flat facets that are precisely positioned all the way around to maximize the light the stone captures.
What is the Difference Between Diamond Cut and Shape?
Though often used interchangeably, it’s important to understand that diamond cut and shape are related elements, but they are not the same. Diamond shape is a visual aspect that can be easily seen by the naked eye, referring to the overall outline of a stone (like a princess, oval, or round shape). Diamond cut refers to the angles of the facets and is responsible for how well the stone interacts with light. The shape is heavily considered when cutting a diamond, as both have a significant effect on the final product.
Why Diamond Cut Matters
The cut of a diamond directly affects the stone’s brilliance, sparkle, and, ultimately, its value. Selecting the perfect diamond jewelry for your collection is an important decision, and quality is key.
Diamond jewelry is prized by generation after generation due to the unique way it dazzles and shines with every wear. If you’re investing your hard-earned money into a diamond ring or diamond studded earrings, you want the best “wow” factor money can buy. Well, turns out that diamond cut is to thank!
Did you know that the cut allows light to enter a diamond? The arrangement of facets, overall shape, and perfectly measured size invite the light to bounce around within the stone and exit again, giving the diamond its signature sparkle. If you want your accessories to be as beautiful as possible, considering a diamond cut is key.
Understanding Face-Up Appearance in Diamonds
When we talk about a gemstone’s “face-up appearance,” we’re referring to the way it looks from above. Typically, this is the part of the diamond you see when you’re wearing your jewelry, as the sides and bottom of the stone are often tucked away in the setting of a wedding band or engagement ring.
Something you’ll notice when you look at the diamond’s face-up appearance is that one-of-a-kind sparkle. But what makes diamonds so dazzling?
If you’ve ever been distracted by the flash of a brilliant engagement ring on a passerby’s hand or found yourself mesmerized at the counter of a jewelry store, you’ll know exactly what magical property we’re talking about. Learn the words to describe it yourself and feel like a pro the next time you shop for diamond jewelry:
What is Diamond Brightness?
Diamonds look brighter depending on how much light is refracted and returned to the eye. Brightness, or brilliance, refers to the measured amount of white light a diamond bounces back when viewed face-up.
Pro tip: when a diamond looks brighter, it also tends to look bigger!
What is Diamond Fire?
Don’t worry; your diamond isn’t literally on fire! This descriptive word actually refers to the colorful flashes of light that a diamond omits when under direct light, similar to a rainbow prism you hang in the window. Fire, sometimes known as dispersion, is the result of the way that light bends and breaks into unique colors within the stone.
What is Diamond Scintillation?
Have you ever noticed the bright flashes of light a diamond gives off as it is moved or angled? This phenomenon is called scintillation, a fancy word for the sparkle that bounces from facet to facet as a diamond catches the light during movement. Diamond jewelry lovers will tell you that scintillation is what brings a piece to life!
How is Diamond Cut Graded?
The GIA’s diamond cut grading system is most commonly used to assess the quality of the diamond cut on a scale ranging from excellent to poor. The proportions of the facets and how well the diamond interacts with the light are evaluated. Craftsmanship, as well as the relationship of weight and diameter, symmetry, and polish, are also noted.
High-quality diamonds come with a diamond certificate from a respectable gem lab. This certificate will include the diamond cut grade. As you are browsing for your next diamond jewelry purchase, don’t hesitate to ask Fink’s jeweler for the certificate of a diamond that caught your eye.
GIA Diamond Cut Grades
Before they are shipped off to jewelry crafters, diamond cuts must be graded. The diamonds at Fink’s are graded on the GIA scale, which ranges from:
- Excellent: an evenly contrasted pattern of bright and dark areas with balanced reflections
- Very Good: reflects nearly all light with fire and brilliance but is not perfectly balanced
- Good: not as bright, more darkness and dullness within the diamond
- Fair: limited brilliance and a darker table and girdle area
- Poor: prominent dark areas within the stone, almost no brilliance
How Are Diamonds Cut?
Before a diamond cutter decides to make a cut, they will evaluate the stone to see which shape will minimize internal and external flaws. The goal is always to produce a final product that is as large and as brilliant as possible. Nowadays, these cutters have computer programs that do this planning for them.
Step 1: Choosing a Diamond Cutting Method
Diamonds are cut using one of two methods depending on the shape and size of the rough stone: cleaving and sawing. Did you know that, due to their extreme hardness, diamonds can only be cut or polished by other diamonds—or at least tools containing diamond powder in their blades? Well, it’s true! Both methods use this to their advantage.
Cleaving takes only a few seconds and is achieved by splitting the diamond with the grain along its naturally weaker lines. A groove is carved along the intended mark with either a laser or diamond saw blade. A steel blade is then placed in the groove, and a sharp blow is used to split the stone. This option is the best for creating separate pieces for multiple diamond cuts.
Sometimes, if no inclusions or weak spots are clear, cleaving is not possible. In this event, the sawing method is used to create their initial diamond cut. With either a high-speed rotating blade covered in diamond dust or a modernized laser beam, professionals can carve out a basic form for further refining and facet work.
Step 2: Bruting and Girdling
After a diamond cut has been made (by either method), the rough diamond must be shaped into the desired form before any individual facets are made. Typically, the bruting or girdling process is done by setting out two diamonds on spinning axles that turn in opposite directions and grind against one another. Once the basic form is made, the cutter can move on to the final step.
Step 3: Creating Facets
Whether you grew up admiring your grandmother’s diamond engagement ring or have only glimpsed the April birthstone in showcases, you’ve likely seen the tiny, carefully carved surface of a diamond before. But what many people don’t know is that the expertly flat, polished surfaces on the exterior of a diamond are called facets! These meticulously crafted angles ensure maximum light reflection in the stone and are the final step in the diamond-cutting process.
When it is time for the faceting step, a skilled craftsman presses the diamond against a diamond-encrusted spinning wheel to create the main facets and basic form. Then, smaller facets are added, often by hand, at precise angles for optimal light reflection. These days, machines can do much of the math, but in the old days of diamond cutting, every single angle was measured and carved by hand!
Understanding the Main Components of a Diamond
When it comes to cutting the perfect diamond, every single physical aspect plays a role in its everlasting beauty. The measurements and facets of each of these components contribute to the stone’s appearance in their own unique way:
The Table Size
A diamond’s table is the flat facet at the very top of the diamond. Usually seen from above in jewelry designs, this cut controls the amount of light that enters and exits the stone. The table percentage (found with the width of the table and the overall diameter of the stone) should fall between 53% and 63%.
The Crown Height
The crown refers to the top section of a diamond. Height is measured as the distance between the table and the girdle. How tall or short the crown affects the light reflection and face-up appearance. The preferred angles fall between 30° and 35°.
The Pavilion Depth
The pavilion, the bottom part of a diamond, reflects light back through the crown to hit the viewer’s eye. It is measured as the distance from the girdle to the culet. This angle is an essential measurement: if it’s too steep or shallow, light will not evenly disperse throughout the stone, resulting in a lower-quality shine. The optimal angle falls between a range of 40.6° to 41.0°.
The Girdle Thickness
The diamond girdle refers to the outermost edge where the crown and pavilion meet. This must be the perfect width: if the girdle is too thin, it risks chipping; if it’s too thick, it can throw off the stone’s balance. With a direct impact on durability and visual style, the girdle thickness of every diamond bought is something expert jewelers pay special attention to.
The Culet Size
The point at the very bottom of a diamond is called the culet. Its primary purpose is to protect the bottom from chipping, but most notably, this extra small facet is where the light that enters the stone converges. If the culet is too large, it will be visible through the table; if it is too small, the risk of chipping increases. Size is usually described in a range of:
- None
- Very Small
- Small
- Medium
- Large
- Very Large
- Extremely Large
The 3 Key Elements of a Good Diamond Cut
When discussing the intricacies of diamonds, the tiny behind-the-scenes details are key. It’s important to understand that the quality of a diamond cut is based on a combination of three vital factors:
1. Diamond Proportions and Measurements
Diamond proportion refers to the angles of all the facets that make up the table, depth, and crown. Experts handle precise measurements and properly proportioned facets, as every single cut affects the overall balance and ultimate appearance of a stone. If a diamond were to be nonproportional, it would lose its elegant appeal.
2. Balanced Diamond Symmetry
Diamond symmetry describes how precisely the facets of a diamond align and intersect. This can be measured by a variety of factors, including how the edges line up, the uniformity of the facets in both shape and size, and how the facts join at points and corners. In simple terms, the more mirrored a diamond’s symmetry is, the more brilliant the stone is (and the higher the price!).
How Does Symmetry Impact Diamond Cut?
When it comes to diamond cuts, symmetry is good for more than just looks! Good or near-perfect symmetry allows light to easily travel through the stone, bouncing off all the carefully carved facets and angles. Diamond cuts with poor symmetry force light to bounce off defective angles through the bottom or sides of the diamond rather than back up to the top.
3. Diamond Polish and Surface
When shopping for diamond jewelry, don’t want to settle for a “diamond in the rough”! Polish refers to the quality of the stone’s overall finish.
In simple terms, it measures how smooth (both visually and to the touch) the facets feel. Though this is generally less critical of a factor than diamond cut, clarity, or color, it’s important to remember that the quality of polish will affect a stone’s end-result sparkle.
How are Diamonds Polished?
Polishing is one of the final steps in the diamond-cutting process. Rough diamonds often have barely visible crystal bumps on the facet’s surfaces. The cut diamond is then polished by gemologists using a spinning wheel covered with diamond paste, which slowly removes the imperfections. Then, often by hand, finer and finer grits of diamond dust abrasives are used to remove any scratches to reveal the ultra-smooth, reflective finish.
Diamond Polish Grading Scale
Polish can impact the price of a gemstone, but not as much as the other elements of a diamond cut can. Trustworthy jewelers will only sell you top-graded stones at an appropriate price point, but understanding the grading scale can help you find the best diamond ring for your budget. The official polish grades range from:
- Excellent: no flaws visible under 10x magnification (jeweler’s top standard)
- Very good: flaws are extremely difficult to spot under 10x magnification (jeweler’s second choice)
- Good: flaws are only somewhat difficult to find under 10x magnification
- Fair: some flaws are able to be seen under 10x magnification and could also be visible to the naked eye
- Poor: flaws are visible with magnification and to the naked eye
7 Polish Marks That Affect a Diamond’s Grade
Before a diamond is sent off to Fink’s to be crafted into princess cut rings or cushion cut pendants, the expert gemologists look carefully at every diamond sold for these seven types of surface blemishes:
- Nick: tiny exterior notch
- Scratch: transparent line on the surface
- Pit: small divot made by mistake when cutting
- Abrasion: tiny nick close together on facets
- Polish line: translucent or white fine line
- Burn mark: cloudy haze caused by high-temperature contact
- Lizard skin: bumpy reptilian texture on a diamond’s surface
General FAQs on Diamond Cuts
It takes years for jewelry experts to fully understand the nuances of diamond cutting—but you, as a shopper, don’t have that kind of time! Before you buy that diamond tennis bracelet, make sure you understand the basics written above, as well as the answers to a few of these frequently asked questions:
Does Carat Affect Diamond Cut?
When it comes down to it, no, carat has nothing to do with diamond cut. In the world of diamonds, carat refers to the unit of measurement for a diamond’s weight, not a stone’s size.
The cut of a diamond has more to do with the overall appearance and light reflection than the carat weight. While both factors can be considered when shopping for diamond jewelry to last you a lifetime, they are not necessarily related to one another.
Can the Diamond Cut Affect the Stone’s Strength?
You may be wondering if a poorly cut diamond compromises the strength of the stone. The short answer is no. As one of the strongest stones on Earth, it takes a lot to destroy a diamond.
The strength of a diamond is retained regardless of how it is cut because its strength comes from a molecular level. Asymmetrical or disproportioned diamonds are not weaker than those that have been graded at excellent levels. One exception to this rule is if a diamond has a long crack that carries through the whole stone. If this is the case, the diamond is much more susceptible to splitting in two.
Even though a poorly cut diamond is still, well, a diamond, it loses much of its value and appeal due to its lack of brilliance. Badly cut diamonds are just as strong as their counterparts; they just appear dull, dark, and muted.
What is the Difference Between a Round and Fancy Cut?
In the diamond business, a “round cut” refers to the classically round shape seen in the majority of traditional jewelry pieces. Fancy shape refers to any diamond cut that is not a round cut.
Fancy shapes produce less diamond waste, as the rough stone can be any shape to start, and are generally less expensive. Round diamonds are considered the most brilliant cut, producing the most light performance. Both have their time and place in your jewelry box!
Diamond Cut Methods
There are three diamond-cutting styles, and each has its own distinct characteristics that set it apart. A diamond cut can use just one or a combination of a few to create contemporary designs that wearers will cherish for years to come.
- Step cut: prioritizes clarity and uses fewer long, rectangular cuts
- Rose cut: features flat bottoms and more triangular facets
- Vintage cut: an older method that has larger facets and less sparkle
9 Types of Diamond Cuts
It’s time to start shopping for your dream diamond jewelry—how exciting! When you begin your search, you’ll likely start by considering diamond shape and setting a budget. Learning a bit more about the diamond cuts of each shape will help you make your choice. Explore nine of the most popular diamond cuts to get started:
1. Round Cut Diamonds
The OG and tried-and-true favorite diamond cut has always been, and may always be, the round brilliant diamond cut. Once you see one in person, it’s easy to understand why the round brilliant cut is the most popular of the cuts. With 57 to 58 facets and optimal symmetry, proportion, and polish, these diamonds are downright impossible to take your eyes off, thanks to their brilliant sparkle and breathtaking shine.
Round brilliant cut diamonds give you the value you’re seeking in a diamond jewelry piece. When a rough stone is cut for a round design, more of the stone is lost, resulting in each carat having a higher value. This is the perfect diamond cut for any design, whether you’re buying a round engagement ring, a dazzling pendant necklace, or diamond drop earrings for a loved one.
2. Princess Cut Diamonds
The more modern princess cut features a square shape with perfectly sharp corners. Designed to maximize the brilliance of a diamond, the princess cut combines the expert carving of the round cut with a more contemporary and angular aesthetic. The craftsmanship lies in the precise faceting, leaving chevrons and x patterns dancing on the surface of the diamonds.
Princess cuts were extremely popular in the ‘80s, ‘90s, and early 2000s—but real elegance never goes out of style! If you’re looking for a princess cut ring or studded princess cut bracelet, there are plenty to find in a variety of metals and styles.
3. Cushion Cut Diamonds
Cushion cut diamonds are a beloved choice in every generation of jewelry lovers. Known for their rectangular or square shape, cushion cuts feature soft, rounded edges, giving them their pillow-like appearance. Just like a round brilliant cut, cushion cut diamonds have 58 facets, giving them the same level of sparkle.
With no sharp edges to get caught on clothing, cushion cut rings are a popular choice for anyone with a busy lifestyle. With a softer edge, a cushion-cut diamond ring also lends itself well to halo styles.
4. Oval Cut Diamonds
If you’ve always loved the look of round brilliant cuts but want something a bit more elevated, consider the oval cut diamond. With an elongated shape and signature shine, oval diamonds often create the illusion of a heavier carat weight. With no sharp edges, this durable type of diamond cut is stylish, durable, and easy to wear!
Oval cut engagement rings are known for giving the illusion of longer, slender fingers, making them a flattering choice for every stylish bride. The silhouette of an oval cut diamond adds to its unique, timeless appeal.
5. Emerald Cut Diamonds
Emerald cut diamonds are one of two types that use step-cut faceting techniques. Originally created for emerald gemstones, the parallel, symmetrical, clean lines create a flashy hall of mirrors effect as they catch the flight. Though they may not have the same brilliance as a traditional round diamond cut, they are the perfect choice for those who favor an understated style.
Emerald cut engagement rings are the best choice for women who prefer their jewelry to exude subtle elegance. This sophisticated shape showcases the diamond’s clarity and color above all else, making something like our emerald cut baguette accent ring perfect for a rustic or vintage look.
6. Marquise Cut Diamonds
A marquise cut diamond is essentially a diamond cut into the shape of an oval with pointed tips at the top and bottom, like an eye. This style of cut dates all the way back to King Louis XV’s request that his jeweler create a cut that looked like his lover’s lips! To give that slimming, graceful appearance, the stone of a marquise cut diamond ring should be 1.75 to 2.25 times as long as it is wide. If it’s too short, it won’t be flattering!
7. Asscher Cut Diamonds
Often referred to as the emerald cut’s cousin, the historically significant Asscher cut is the other type of diamond cut that uses step facets. With a generally square shape and corners that give it an octagon-esque look, the additional step facets help add more scintillation than its emerald counterpart.
The extra facets on the corners give Asscher cut diamond engagement rings that desirable brilliance. If you’re searching for something a bit more unique, this is the diamond cut for you.
8. Pear Cut Diamonds
When you study a pear cut diamond, also referred to as a teardrop cut, you’ll notice that it is actually an oval with a single pointed tip. Pear shaped engagement rings can be worn facing any north-south direction—the choice is up to you! No two pear cut stones are exactly alike, making every purchase completely unique.
Said to symbolize tears of joy, our pear-cut engagement rings are a lovely choice anytime two people decide to join in holy matrimony. The unique shape of this fancy cut is perfect for adding a little something special to your everyday style.
9. Heart Cut Diamonds
Love is love—and who wouldn’t want a heart-shaped ring to prove it? If you’re looking for a heart cut diamond, you should know that it’s one of the most difficult and expensive cuts to produce. Though they are only technically a pear shape with a cleft at the top, the heart took years to reach the market, as it can only be cut with sophisticated computer technology.
Our stunning diamond and sapphire ring features an open white gold band with a heart cut diamond on one end and a marquise cut sapphire on the other. A lovely April or September birthstone gift for the one who has your heart.
While you’ll find fun heart cut diamond jewelry pieces at Fink’s, a heart cut engagement ring is a bit harder to track down. If you’re interested in a heart cut forever ring for your love, don’t hesitate to reach out to our customization design experts to chat about the possibility of cutting you your dream stone!
As jewelers, we want to make sure you’re satisfied with your diamond shopping experience from start to finish. At Fink’s, our experts would be thrilled to share their knowledge of diamond jewelry and quality with you. However, we understand that it can make you feel more at ease to learn some diamond basics before you step into a jewelry store.
If you want to be as prepared as possible the next time you shop for diamond jewelry, the research can start at home. It doesn’t matter whether you’re searching for an engagement ring or a present for yourself—studying up on diamond cuts will help determine exactly what kind of diamond you’re looking for so you can find your perfect piece.
